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  As the sun rises, the vegetable market on the Nigeen Lake buzzes with activity. It looks serene at dawn.

  Kashmir
  Sunrise

  Kashmir
  Sunrise

  

  Tourists in Srinagar typically prefer the front of the Dal or Nigeen Lakes, but these backwaters offer the lives and stories of houseboat dwellers.

  The Journey
  Begins

  The Journey
  Begins

  

  This is the dawn vegetable market on the backwaters. Farmers and vegetable growers assemble every morning to sell their produce.

  The Floating
  Market

  The Floating
  Market

  

  Flowers and radishes are just a few of the wares on sale today.

  Produce
  for Sale

  Produce
  for Sale

  

  Trees cast their reflections on the Nigeen's surface.

  Dawn on
  the Water

  Dawn on
  the Water

  

  The boatman plucks a gorgeous lotus from the Nigeen and offers it as a vibrant gift.

  A Gorgeous
  Gift

  A Gorgeous
  Gift

  

  The architecture in Kashmir is extraordinary.

  Entering
  Rainawari

  Entering
  Rainawari

  

  Red carnations cling to a house's brickwork, making a lovely setpiece.

  Striking
  Vegetation

  Striking
  Vegetation

  

  This is a breathtaking view of a home in Rainawari. Its dubbs — covered balconies — are quite striking.

  Astonishing
  Architecture

  Astonishing
  Architecture

  

  Here is the same Rainawari home seen from a low angle.

  Astonishing Architecture
  — Low Angle

  Astonishing Architecture
  — Low Angle

  

  Two vivid gondolas are chained to a post outside a home.

  Neighborhood Home

  Neighborhood Home

  

  Orange window panes and magenta flowers give this backwater home an eye-catching aesthetic.

  Colorful Complements

  Colorful Complements

  

  This is a magnificent house with a shikara — a traditional Kashmiri gondola — beside it.

  Stunning Home
  with Shikara

  Stunning Home
  with Shikara

  

  Beautiful mansions, built in the typical Kashmiri architectural style with wood and thin, clay bricks, can be seen from the backwaters. Here is a stunning house in Rainawari which once belonged to a Kashmiri pandit before pandits had to flee Kashmir in the 1990s.

  Pandit's
  Mansion

  Pandit's
  Mansion

  

  Here is a flower seller in spring. A myriad of flowers bedeck the Kashmir Valley during summer, so that is when the colors are most brilliant.

  Spring
  Blossoms

  Spring
  Blossoms

  

  Shiv Mandir, locally called Bod Mandar, is right on the banks of the Nigeen, accessible by steps that lead from the water or road. The pandits of Rainawari flocked to this Shiva temple every day, especially on Herath (Shivratrti).

  Shiv Mandir
  Temple

  Shiv Mandir
  Temple

  

  A vegetable seller carries freshly-harvested nadrus (lotus root).

  The Floating Market
  — Nadrus Seller

  The Floating Market
  — Nadrus Seller

  

  This walking path leads past the reeds to a house.

  Reedy
  Pathway

  Reedy
  Pathway

  

  This wooden bridge provides a dry walking path for those without a boat.

  Wooden
  Footbridge

  Wooden
  Footbridge

  

  It is common to pass under bridges when gliding across the lake.

  On the
  Move

  On the
  Move

  

  The Nigeen leads to Nadiyar Bridge, Rainawari.

  Nadiyar Bridge
  — Approach

  Nadiyar Bridge
  — Approach

  

  Nadiyar Bridge, Rainawari, is one of the most popular landmarks in downtown Srinagar.

  Nadiyar
  Bridge

  Nadiyar
  Bridge

  

  Kashmir is known for its handspun and handwoven pashmina shawls. Here is one such shawl factory along the backwaters of the Nigeen.

  Diamond Shawl
  Factory

  Diamond Shawl
  Factory

  

  A trader passes through the canal, ferrying his sheep.

  Ferried
  Flock

  Ferried
  Flock

  

  Pigeon-keeping is a popular occupation in Srinagar. Seen here is a kotarbaaz's (pigeon-keeper’s) home.

  Kotarbaaz's
  Residence

  Kotarbaaz's
  Residence

  

  A long jetty leads to a great community of Rainawari homes.

  Rainawari
  from Afar

  Rainawari
  from Afar

  

  Early risers sit on a jetty with their fishing tackle, patiently awaiting a nibble.

  Morning
  Fishing

  Morning
  Fishing

  

  Local breads baked by the kandur (baker) in the tandoor (clay oven) are a staple for Kashmiris. They are in every locality. These breads are eaten during breakfast or with evening tea. This is girda slathered with butter and noon chai (salty tea).

  Kashmiri
  Breakfast

  Kashmiri
  Breakfast

  

  This would be a magnificent photo opportunity if not for the floating garbage. The water in Kashmir is heavily polluted and little has been done to clean it.

  Nigeen
  Unclean

  Nigeen
  Unclean

  

  The Zabarwan Range backdrop makes for a picturesque self-portrait.

  Scenic
  Selfie

  Scenic
  Selfie

Credits
Namrata Wakhloo took these photographs.
Lee Thompson-Kolar edited this piece.