How Ancient Polynesians Conquered the Pacific on Their Surfboards

© Frank Davey /

Exhausted yet exhilarated, surfing in Puerto Escondido evokes indescribable sensations akin to a euphoric high.

Tube riding in surfing provides a profound existential experience, connecting with the universe while surrounded by silence and water.

Surfing's ancient origins as a sacred act contrast with its modern glamorized image and commercial associations.

Polynesia, birthplace of surfing, where the ocean held spiritual significance and surfing was a divine connection.

Polynesians revered the ocean, finding spiritual connection through surfing, tapping into its energy and power.

Heʻe Nalu, the art of wave riding, was celebrated during the Makahiki season, fostering social connections and joyful play.

Hawaiian royalty claimed exclusive access to renowned surf spots, merging tales of gods and goddesses with their surfing experiences.

Kahuna guided surfers in sacred board selection and construction, with skilled craftsmen carving wooden surfboards.